This project was a commission for a client who needed a London base for when life and work brought them to the capital. They wanted a comfortable and modern feel, relaxing and low maintenance. It helps that it is on a mooring, so electrics and plumbing are simplified by having utilities and facilities close at hand
The boat had sunk under the stewardship of the previous owner and while the hull and engine were still sound, there was water damage to the floor and fit out so the whole thing needed starting from scratch. We did a sizeable amount of remedial work to get to a point of having a blank canvas. This included, but was not limited to, removing the flooring from half the boat, drying and sorting the bilges, removing several bulkheads and removing the black water tank. If you want tips on removing a black water tank, then you can read more in my Dan’s DIY tips section ‘It’s a S**t job’
brief was to make a contemporary and easy to care for space, as much like a
modern flat as possible. This was to be a home from home while in London, not a
CC’er or a holiday boat. The chosen finishes are all very modern, the colour
pallet neutral and soothing.
We fitted a Benchmarx kitchen, I’ll try do tips post on kitchen fitting sometime soon. This was given oak butchers block worktops, from worktop express. The oak tops are excellent value for money, though you do need to take a little care to look after wooden tops, but on the plus side they can be refinished where a laminate cannot.
The bathroom is tiled in a Travertine mosaic, with an ‘off shelf’ vanity and a quadrant shower cubicle from Wesley Marine Windows Ltd. Wesley Marine are one of the few producers of ‘short’ shower units. They do a range of them in 1600-1800 which lets you fit in a proper feeling shower enclosure within the restricted height of a narrowboat. You could have a shower enclosure made bespoke, but this would cost a lot more.
In the bathroom a bench style Thetford cassette toilet was chosen. It is very easy to use with its wheel along cassettes. This mooring has an elsan point on site, so a cassette toilet is a good choice. Read more about toilets in our toilet blog post! Essential boater reading matter.
bedroom we made a fully bespoke suite, with drawers beneath the bed for storage
and a more drawers at the end with a hanging space above. This little area also serves as a dresser with
an offcut of worktop making up a dressing table, with a power socket set into
it for easy use of a hair dryer or other items. The boat itself was chosen by
the client to be wired up largely as a 240V boat, running off the shoreline,
though it does also have 12V sockets and lights so it can be used away from the
The colour scheme is a gentle grey and white, very popular at the moment and I think it is calming as well as elegant. Everything was painted by us, in an acrylic water-based paint. This is a good durable paint. It can be wiped clean of light stains and marks and has a certain degree of resistance to water and humidity. A satin finish water-based paint will not be as durable as a high gloss, but it feels a bit more modern and is easy to work with and apply.
In conclusion then, this is a delightful little boat that should hopefully serve the owner well for many years to come. It shows a narrowboat can be comfortable and modern, I hope this is a relaxing and pleasant space for the client and they enjoy it whenever they stay there.
This job is particularly dear to
me as I carried out a large amount of the manual work on it personally. Sadly,
I was also responsible for the photography of the finished products, so this
does leave something to be desired.
It started originally as a kitchen,
and then the client added wardrobes for each of the bedrooms. The theme runs throughout, paint with wood,
new with old. The actual designs were created by the client as well, who is an
architect by trade. This meant we had some of the best drawings that I have
ever been given, a blessing when you are pricing and quantity surveying a job
The kitchen was a remodelling of an old kitchen (right) left over in the flat from many years before. This had to go completely, except for the worktop and sink. The top, which is a beautiful old piece of wood, we took away to repair and re-finish. This came up beautifully (below right) when sanded and oiled, and we paired it with Iroko for the other wooden details in the kitchen. Iroko is interesting in that it can be very light in colour when machined, but will darken down to a gorgeous deep brown over time.
The marble contrasts beautifully with the old timber and the two give a real heart to the room. All of the doors and drawers are, as with the other cupboards, spray finished in AC lacquer (colour ‘first light’) and the carcasses are birch ply that were then finished with two coats of Osmo hardwax oil.
Another notable feature in the kitchen is the industrial influenced cooker extraction hood (left), made by local fabricator Nel Holmgren. I also really like the ceramic knobs, which are actually wiring insulation knobs re-purposed as hardware for the doors and drawers
As we move through the rest of the flat there are a series of wardrobes and cupboards, each purpose built for their rooms. The one that stands out for me is the entrance hall (featured top), with the open shelving and the fluted glass side table it has a lot of character and fits its space really well. Here, as with many of the other rooms, the spray finished parts have been paired with solid oak elements, the end panels, trims and shelving.
The master bedroom is likewise, and here we have a continental feel to the room with a pair of wardrobes bracketing open shelving over the bed. Incidentally, the headboard opens at the top to give some extra storage space inside. Of the other two bedrooms one is very similar in design, but the other has no oak elements to it and instead has sprayed parts for the end panels and framing. This was the choice of the room’s occupant and I feel it looks just as lovely as the oak and paint in the other rooms.
It’s been decided that we are going to start blogging, and in an effort to do my part I’ve sat down and started typing. We get asked about wet-rooms all the time yet rarely end up doing them. Why? It’s pretty hard work (read expensive) to retro fit a wet room and I am not super keen to take on the liability and stress of it leaking unless the price is right. Machiavellian I know, but it’s not a job you can rush and take chances on, which means high labour costs. That leads to the question, what’s the fuss about?
when done properly, are a great solution for a boat bathroom.
Sod trying to find the right size shower tray and screen then squeeze
them in to place. Or, worse still, pay through the nose for a bespoke
setup. Instead, put all you blood, sweat
and tears in to building a fully water proof room then simply spray water
everywhere with gay abandon.
try and go through a little of; What a wet-room is, how it’s made and what that
entails, why they are a bit of a bugger but also great, and generally that sort
Let’s start with the first and last point. A wet room is a room that you can get wet…. Hm, true but unhelpful. A wet-room is a room that has been water-proofed, often to make an open plan shower, but essentially an area that can get soaking wet without any of that troublesome water getting in all the places that you don’t want it; bilges, electrics, walls etc. They are amazing as you can have a great big shower of any size and shape, use the whole room really. They’re pretty stylish and slick. They just sound cool, and all your mates will want one.
Why are they a pain? Well, beyond
the fact that plumbing is always a pain on boats (household and marine plumbing
systems rarely making convenient bed fellows) and you have all the usual
problems of getting the required trap and plumbing under the floor in a near
non-existent gap. Beyond that, you’ve got to create a room that is completely
waterproof yet still have holes for things coming in and out and if you bugger
it up you’ve a lot of work to do getting it right. If your tanking is no good
then those beautiful antique crackle glaze tiles are all coming back off the
wall, and they ain’t gonna be coming off in one piece
water must get out, so you have to put a hole through your carefully
constructed tank. You’ve got to seal all
the floor and a good chunk of the wall up so good luck getting to anything that
was below or behind that!
at this point a wet-room still seems a desirous and glorious addition to your
boat, how does one go about it? The starting point is first fix plumbing. Get
all your feeds and all the parts of the drain and pump assembly in place. Where
this all is will depend on the set up, previous and desired. It’s a pain to
move existing things and best avoided, but not always possible.
The big bit to get right is how
to fit the drain. You’re cutting a whole
in your waterproof floor! That’s trouble but can be worked around in a number
of ways. There are formers available,
these are composite boards that fit in or on the floor and can be tiled. As
they have a pre made hole with a trap especially designed to go with them these
are a good bet. They also have built in fall. You can make your own from scratch; ply,
firrings, tanking kit and frustration (I know, I chose this path for my own
boat). Or you could use an available tray but build
the floor up to match. Bit of a cheat but as the ‘off shelf’ trays are so cheap
they can be useful and using them to make a wet-room gets you round the fact
they are always too damn shallow.
The walls will want something decent on them. Maybe you already have the walls in place maybe you have nothing there, maybe you need to move what is there. Almost certainly there’ll be things to box out, areas to square off and tweaks that are required. If putting walls in a then wedi board is ideal but a good quality ply is also a reasonable bet. Both cement board and Wedi board need a frame so you can’t beat ply for keeping it trim. I’ll let you decide if WBP, Birch or Marine is your cup of tea, I honestly think if you’re doing your tanking properly any of those three will be fine. If you are cladding existing walls then cement board was the go too, but it’s ruddy heavy. Wedi board, a relative newcomer to the market, is a great alternative. Loads lighter, similar price, cuts with a knife, it’s hard to think how we got by before it. The clouds of carcinogenic dust created by grinding through cement board make me shiver in memory.
Right, floor in, walls in, floor up again as the trap wasn’t in, floor back in, trap tested, feeds in wall for shower, sink, pump in accessible point to pump out said trap, sink waste in, great. At this point I might mention that you don’t have to use a trap and a whale gulper, but, you’ve come this far so why muck about with anything else. To my mind a sump and pump system, particularly one that uses the bilge of the boat as the sump, just doesn’t make the grade. That said, a small grey water tank with a gulper with a float is great if you want to go that far Can I endorse products on here? Yes, this isn’t the BBC, I can do what I ruddy well like. Whale gulper, Wedi board and now time for our Mapei tanking kit (edit: I’ve been trying out Topps Tiles tanking kit too and it’s not bad) , easily available from Toolstation or Screwfix for around fifty squids (or pounds, if you are at a branch that doesn’t accept sea food as currency).
The Mapei tanking kit is pretty
good. Cheaper than some rivals (Bal) and
fairly comprehensive. I feel it does fall down on being a bit mean on the
jointing tape they provide. I wouldn’t mind so much but as it’s £20 for an
extra roll it seems a bit like a stealth tax.
Anyhow, read the bucket, tape it up, gloop that liquid waterproof
membrane all over the wall! Maybe this is a good point to tally up the time
spent on this little project so far….
Surveying and Design
1st Fix – Drain and Pump
1st Fix – Feeds, shower and sink
1st Fix – Sink Waste
Box out stuff
Tank floor, tray and walls
People are welcome to dispute
these figures. As I have pulled them completely out of the air it’s hard to say
if they are truly accurate. The way I produce numbers will be a subject for
discussion in an upcoming blog on pricing and project managing. I shall try and give some real world examples
when we get there, but till then you are welcome to accept these figures or
not. Point is, you can see that even
with a fair wind and a calm sea we’ve clocked up the best part of a week, If
it’s been a right fiddle it could easily be more like two.
We’re ready to tile, hooray! At this point I cross my fingers and hope I’m not going to be asked to fit metro tiles. My apologies to existing clients who have requested this, I have previously made my feelings clear so it can’t be a surprise and I am prepared to respect other people’s tastes and opinions being different to my own. For me though they are old hat, boring and dated. There are various brick tile alternatives, check out the Lampas tile range at Topp’s Tiles. They’re even on offer at the moment (no, I don’t get kick-backs). If you are DIYing then silicone can be a good way to fit wall tiles on a boat. Takes a bit longer but does a good job, is forgiving and let’s you start and stop when you please. If you’re tiling like a boss then a cement based flexible rapid set adhesive (grey or white depending on grout line, makes your life easier) is your go to. Again, I use Topp’s Tiles own brand. I find it as good as Bal and it’s half the price. Do clean your grout lines out before the adhesive goes off too hard, i.e. same day, and not with the silicone option! Take care not to damage the tanking as well. Don’t put the spacers in the actual corners of the tiles, this is truly schoolkid and should not be permitted. They stick in perpendicular to the wall and are removed after. You can thank me when you come to grout and you don’t have loads of stupid bits of plastic showing.
Another good reason to do them
this way is it allows you to cheat your grout lines. It’s more important to
have the lines running through well than to have a grout line that is always
perfectly the same size. Not all surfaces, or come to it all tiles, are true
and flat. You need to step back, check your lines and cheat them where
required. I might do a ‘tips on tiling’ sometime soon. For now, when it comes to
the outside wall, just remember Pythagoras!
Tiles on, get that grout in.
Good, we’re really making some progress now.
I shan’t dally about too much longer and we shall assume at this point
that everything has been done correctly and is working. Second fix plumbing should be easy if the
first fix was done correctly, if not be prepared to sweat and cry. Stick in a vanity unit. We’d make you one
but, to be honest, you can get them so cheap off the internet that unless you
have very specific requirements then there is very little point shelling out
for a bespoke item. There are always other things to spend money on in a boat. You might still want a screen, a piece of
custom glass is going to set you back a little, but peanuts compared to a full
custom shower enclosure. Really though,
I think we are about there. Not so bad after all. Shall we have a quick tally
of those last bits
2nd Fix Shower
2nd Fix Vanity Unit
Fit Shower Screen
Again, we seem to have a week on
the easy path, two on the fiddly one.
Assuming there was no electrics and no decoration (lies, damnable
lies!!!) then we’re gravy. You could have
a wet-room fitted in as little as 80 person hours, or perhaps as many as 160. I won’t crunch numbers too much here as
that’s another blog but you can see it’s not a quick job. You’ll also have
shelled out a fair wedge on materials, though if you DIY and don’t count your
own time (or frustrations) then this could be considered a cheapish job to
We had one client who opted to do
all their own plumbing on a bathroom we did for them. Never done any plumbing
before, no experience of that or any other trades, went in blind. You know
what, they did a decent job. Took a little while and they had to rethink their
plans at points along the way, but goes to show that if you put sufficient time
and care in you can achieve most things.
Moral of all of this; Wet-rooms
are awesome, they are expensive but they are definitely worth considering if
you have the inclination to upgrade your bathroom. Be warned though, don’t cut corners or you’ll
have made some a very expensive problem for yourself. Enjoy!
Well, the less marine based puns the better, lord knows I don’t want to expose my shocking lack of knowledge of sailing. Carpentry, cabinetry, tiling, boat fitting in general. Of the many things I do know about I must admit that actual sailing, sadly, is not one of them.
This post is nothing to do with that so, moving swiftly on, today’s blog will be a little bit about readying boats for sale (not sail, if you go out in to open waters with a narrowboat then best of luck to you, but it is a seriously silly idea unless very well prepared). I do hear people talk about flipping boats in the way they do houses, and you can probably make a few quid doing this. However, unless you are doing the labour yourself and can add value at a greater per hour rate than you’d earn doing your day job then I would be wary of looking at boat renovation as any kind of gold mine
That said, people will want to sell boats. Be it a project
that has come to an end, moving on to a different boat or, heaven forbid, on to
land, perhaps you’re going to move in with a partner and you’ve lost the coin
toss and your boat is the one to go under the hammer. Whatever the reason, you
may be looking at sprucing up your boat pre-sale to either add value or improve
The most important thing is going to be the same as with any house or flat and that is declutter. We all know boats aren’t the mot spacious places to live so best to maximise what space you have. If it’s full of your junk, then it’s never going to look appealing. So, get us much out as you can, get it organised, get it clean and clear and you’ll be halfway there.
The cheapest fix and the easiest, for those with less advanced DIY capabilities, is a good coat of paint. While I wouldn’t suggest trying to cover a boats problems with a layer of emulsion (for a start it’s a boat, let’s push it out and go acrylic ay?) simply repainting the interior can go a long way to brighten and revitalise a space. The veneer throughout look can seem very dated and the yellow varnish and stained walls will often look great with a decent bit of redecoration. If the veneer and trims still look good then a wood and paint mix, e.g. panels painted and trims left or an above below gunwale split, can give a much more modern look but retain an aquatic favour
If you’re going to do further improvements, then I would
suggest leaving the painting till last. You don’t want to ruin your good work
with a load of other work going on. For my money then paint/varnish is the
final thing, the icing on the cake.
Look at how you’re using your space. People love some clever storage. What about some chunky floating shelves or a new cupboard to use a dead space? When I first moved on to a boat I was amazed at how my van load of possessions quickly disappeared in to the nooks and crannies of a boat. Again, if you’ve got cupboards and shelves a plenty, why not repaint tired old doors, keep it simple, or, add some colour. White and white is the rule for houses but I think that a bit of character sells a boat. People aren’t looking for that same beige life experience that they want with a half million one bed flat in Hackney (75% now sold, buy buy buy!!)
For those of a more daring disposition then the real gems of a boat are often the bathroom and kitchen. Done well they really make a boat, if they are damp, mouldy and smelly then there is nothing surer to send a canny purchaser running for the hills. It is a bigger endeavour to redo a whole bathroom or kitchen but there are some easier fixes if you don’t want to rip everything out and start again. Replacing the kitchen doors, worktop and sink and you have a new kitchen. New tiles and a new vanity unit in the bathroom and it can look like a whole new room.
I do feel that if you are getting somebody in to do the work then you are unlikely to add more value to the boat than you are spending, it is just the same in houses. Good quality work is not cheap and while it will increase the value of the boat you shouldn’t expect to make a great net gain. That said, what you can get is greatly improved saleability. With the market in boat sales having taken a slump over the last year (anecdotal only, don’t expect me to back this view with evidence) then having something to make your boat stand out can help get it off the shelf. The world and her wife are all in the boating game these days and the number of boats for sale in London and round the country seems to be increasing near exponentially.
When I bought my boat I fell in love with the head room, the feel, the value and the ‘well put togetherness’ of it. I looked at hundreds of boats online and tens in person before finding the one for me. I don’t know if I’ll ever finish it, let alone sell it (edit: since writing I’ve made good progress, possibly helped by sharing her with a partner these days.) Should I sell I know I’ll never recoup the value of all the hours I have put in. I shouldn’t say, but at the end of the day I think a lot of us would rather sell to somebody who we think is going to love our boat the way we did, over the person who is going to pay the most. Still, we do what we can to try and get value for what we are offering and boating is becoming more and a more a commercialized area.
Final thought, pick your battles and make it stand out. Do
what you can yourself, that which you can’t get an expert to do it well.
Quality shows and people love boats in a way that I feel houses rarely achieve.
We all hear the horror stories of people buying lemons but most people selling
boats are decent and most people buying them are looking to love and own that
boat for many years to come. A well looked after boat with a few stand-out
features is always going to have value.
We’ve been doing some nice floors recently and I thought it about time I wrote something on the subject. There’s enough to say that I will be doing two posts. This one on the types of flooring on offer, and a second on tips and tricks or laying a floor yourself
quick disclaimer, as ever, that this is opinion and I can accept no liability
for any choices or actions you make based upon reading this. Always defer to
manufacturers recommendations. I hope you find this useful and interesting
a wide range of flooring available now, retailing at anywhere from £5psm (per
square metre) to over £100psm. People will swear blind that you should use this
or that, that they’d never lay vinyl or that there’s no point spending £100psm
on fancy wooden engineered floors. Personally, I think all floorings have a
place. I’ll go through some of the common types and why you might want to use,
or avoid, them
A quick thought about subfloor and underlay is probably worth a paragraph, before we move on. Most flooring suppliers will tell you what underlay you require to go with the product you are using. This may have thermal or acoustic properties, or may simply be a vapour barrier. This will go on top of you subfloor which may be solid or suspended. What (and where, e.g. ground floor/first floor) this is will impact the type of underlay. It may also be that some work to level this subfloor is required before laying the finished floor. We’ll look at this in the DIY tips and tricks flooring post
Hard to beat on price, comes in all sorts of finishes and if you can get an offcut (good for the small areas found in boats particularly) then you can get a real bargain. You’ll need a decent subfloor as vinyl brings little to the table in structural terms, but it’s very easy to lay (measure twice cut once though!) and gives a good waterproof layer. We’ve used it on a couple of jobs, not my favourite thing to work with but it has it’s place
Wide choice of looks
Easy to DIY
Difficult to repair if damaged
Can trap moisture
Can look ‘cheap’
If you cut it too small when laying it is impossible to undo
Increasingly popular Kardean flooring, this was featuring on various boats at Crick in 2018. It’s a multi layered vinyl flooring with a high definition photo print on the top to look like stone, timber etc. Very durable and easy to lay, I’ve laid out once and it seemed decent. I did find the click lock on the product I was fiddly at times, though this can be true of other click products. It varies with brand and quality. It’s not cheap, but if you can lay it yourself then labour may balance that out.
Can be easy to fit
Limited finishes and styles available
Not much structure to it, subfloor needs to be good
Starting at around £10psm this is also a pretty economic choice. Laid well it can look pretty convincing and there are a wide range of laminate floors available to mimic all popular styles. It is a multi layered synthetic product and has a low to middling level of durability. Typically the cheap laminates are carboard with a printed wood effect on top. Most are use a click together system for laying. If you are doing a ‘floating floor’, which most of these would be, then you need to have a reasonably flat and level sub-floor. It is not something I have ever laid in a proffesional capacity so I have no photos of what we have laid, however there was laminate on a job where we made some gorgeous reclaimed wood doors.
Easy to fit
More convincing look
Durability an issue with many
Difficult to repair is damaged
Soak up water and the cardboard/mdf base will swell and distort
Generally can only be laid as a ‘floating floor’
Thin structure is unforgiving on an uneven subfloor
Considered by some to be the height of quality flooring, and indeed it can be. I rarely use solid wood, for reasons I will cover, but it can be very beautiful. Prices can be as little as £20psm but can also be over £100! Oak is popular and readily available. Exotic species quickly get very expensive, though not as. We have done some lovely reclaimed floorboard floors. Be aware this is a more skilled and labour intensive way to do flooring than buying a pre prepared ‘off shelf’ product. Bamboo should perhaps be included here, but I will cover it separately.
If you are buying a ready made
flooring then this will likely be tongue and groove. It can laid in various
ways though I would tend to opt for a floating floor to allow for instability
in the material. A decent subfloor and a
good underlay are important. Glue in the grooves will stick the whole
floor together in to a large floating raft.
Generally good durability (less so softwoods)
Can be re-finished if damaged
Can be quite economic, some oak boards are
really good value
Can be quite expensive
Solid wood can be unstable (boards may expand
Harder to lay
Needs acclimatising before being laid
This is my main go to, along with
bamboo. Especially for boats where stability is a factor. There are widely
varying qualities of engineered flooring and this is reflected in the price.
The best are a birch ply with a decent (4mm+) wear strip of the chosen hardwood
on top. It’s this cross laminated structure (you could call an engineered floor
a laminate floor, but they are generally regarded separately) that gives you
such excellent stability. The best
boards can cost more than their solid wood equivalent.
This stability means you
have a wide choice of fitting methods
with the floors; floating, glue together, glue down, hidden nail. Some can be
laid straight to joists (this is true of most solid wood floors as well) if
At the cheaper end of the spectrum are boards made of softwood block board with a thinner (2mm+) veneer on top. These are excellent value and can look great, but won’t be as durable in the long run. Most of the engineered boards come pre finished, oil or lacquer, though the higher end luxury/exotic veneers are often left bare for finishing after laying.
Can be fitted in lots of ways
Wide range of woods and finishes
Can be refinished when damaged
Generally very good durability
Tend to be the most expensive, certainly for quality boards
Need acclimatising before laying
That’s about it, it’s a really good flooring!
Full disclosure, when I first wrote this post I’d not tried bamboo and had included it as footnote in solid floors. Since then I’ve laid, personally and as a company, quite a few bamboo floors and have come to hold them in high regard. Truth be told, it’s a frequent go to!
Price wise a good quality bamboo comes in a similar bracket to a mid to low quality engineered board. Around £30psm gets you a decent bamboo board. They are very durable, harder than oak and arguable more stand. There differences in the manufactur of bamboo, e.g. strand-woven, solid and engineered, but I won’t go into that here.
The variety of finishes and colours, these are added to the natural light bamboo colour, give it good range. It doesn’t look like wood, but I think it has a pleasing aesthetic of it’s own. There’s also the added bonus of it’s relative sustainability, though please do research this yourself if it’s an important factor to you. I’d be interested to hear people’s knowledge on this.
Can be refinished
Can be fiddly cutting
Hardness wears tools
Definitely doesn’t look like wood (if that’s what you really want)
I will cover tiles here very
briefly, I write in greater length about tiling in other blogs and they really
are a topic in and of themselves. Tiles
are attractive, durable, stable and available in range that replicates, or is
replicated, by the various other floorings covered here. We do a reasonable amount of tiled floor and
it is great for boats. The main downside is that it can be a bit chilly, but
this can (not so readily on boats that aren’t on shoreline, but fine for
houses) remedied with underfloor heating. There are very reasonably prices electric
kits available for under tile. Another
downside can be cost, which may be quite high if a lot of remedial work is
required before laying tiles. That said, they come in a range of budgets and
can be laid DIY fairly readily
Can be cheap to buy and install
Wide range of styles
Can be DIYed to good effect
Can be dear
A good subsurface is required
Potentially chilly underfoot
Let’s finish on finishes. This is largely solid, engineered and bank floors, you don’t want to varnish your vinyl! The finishes available on boards are likely to be as good, or better, than you can achieve yourself. It doesn’t save much to get them unfinished, it’s really the high end exotic boards that you would buy unfinished. Also, if you want a very specific finish then you might do this, but by and large you will buy finished boards. It also means you can walk on them straight away and you aren’t stuck watching varnish dry trapped in the corner of a room and unable to get out (certainly not a personal anecdote, I swear!)
With pre-finished boards you’ll often get options on board and finish. First off you can choose plain, distressed or brushed (brushed is where they brush the timber with a metal brush, it helps highlight the grain texture). Then on this you can choose an oil or a lacquer, both of which can come in a variety of sheen levels. A two part lacquer is the most durable finish, if you want to just put it down and ignore it then this is the finish for you. Oil is beautiful and is easy to reapply should the floor be showing signs of wear and tear. It’s six of one and half a dozen of the other. More durable but hard to refinish, less durable but easy to redo.
Some extra blurb
Whatever floor you choose, if you are thinking of laying it yourself then I am hoping to have a Dan’s DIY tips for flooring that I shall be publishing soon. Watch this space
I’d also like to mention that one should read price per square meter with the understanding that you’ll need more than just the boards themselves. The addition of trims, thresholds and various sundries can be 50-100% that cost again
I often get asked if we can come and replace or repair a patch of floor. Typically, something like, “Oh, there’s just a small spot that has gone a bit spongy. Just needs cutting out and a new bit sticking in. Could you help?”
always sets alarm bells racing. Why is a bit of the floor squishy? What is
causing it, and worse, what is now underneath? It would indeed be a small job
to cut away a little bit of board and replace it, but this is rarely what is
required. It is more often the symptom of a much more problematic situation,
one that I shall try and give you some advice on dealing with in this post
The reason that this is often such a costly job is not because of any great skill required in dealing with it, but because it is often a very widespread issue that will require a lot of time to resolve. Potentially moving (removing) many items and carrying out a lot of grotty and lengthy works. If you want to DIY it, you can save a packet. The work involved, for the large part, is not too taxing, just time consuming
break this down in to a few sections in order to make this guide as useful as possible.
Each section will contain an outline, some suggested steps, and some tips and
tricks on dealing with what you may encounter. They will be,
Finding the issue
Preparing for the work
Sorting the bilges
Disclaimer; We take no responsibility for any work you choose to undertake.
While I hope this will be of use to people anything you read here is purely
personal opinion and you should not undertake any work where you do not know
what you are doing. If in doubt get a professional! All boats are different and
anything written here should not be taken as universal
Finding the Issue
first question when anybody says there is a problem with damp is where is the
water coming from? This may seem daunting, but there are only so many places
that it can be coming from and we can trouble shoot our way through. We are assuming
here that your boat is designed with a dry cabin bilge. If it is designed to be wet then water in the
bilge will not be as useful of an indicator, though depending on certain known
factors, like the weather, you may still learn something if the level of water
is changing when not expected to.
For now we’ll assume that you’ve lifted some boards in the effected area and/or lifted inspection hatches (typically found hidden away in corners, sometimes beneath furniture) at the stern of the boat) and found water beneath. If there is a particular wet area, beyond just the bilges at the stern, then searching locally for the leak is going to be a good starting point. Water will run ‘downhill’, so things nearby or in front of this wet area are likely culprits.
might be wondering, is the water coming from the canal? Short answer, probably
not and if it is then this is not the guide for you. If your hull is
unsound, or you suspect it may be, get your boat out the water and get a professional
to advise you. It is rare that this is the case if you’ve had a survey,
though we have been working on a boat that has sprung a leak! If it is possible
to pierce the hull with a scraper or the like, then the hull needs professional
attention. As such, let’s just discount
this for now until you have excluded all other possibilities
coming from the plumbing? This is one of the major causes of a build up of
water. It can often lie unnoticed and rot away timbers and rust bilges unseen
until the problem has gotten much worse. An understanding of water systems on
boats will help you track down issues here, but we will run through some potential
areas that it could be
Water comes from your tank and is then put under pressure by a pump. Any utility using water will be connected to this pressurised system so we can tell if there is a leak between pump and outlets as the pump will come on when there is nothing being used. So, pump running when it shouldn’t be equals a leak in the ‘live’ side of the plumbing. Once you know this, then it’s a case of tracking it down and fixing it. It’s more often a joint than a straight run of pipe so check any connections. Pipes, particularly copper pipes, can split if left full and allowed to freeze in cold weather as well, though this would probably cause a more noticeable leak than just a slow drip.
could be the water is escaping from somewhere after this. Typical things to
check are shower and sink wastes. This might be identified by damp or mould local
to one of these. Drying thoroughly and then running water through with a paper
towel beneath will allow you to check for minor drips. Any joints in pipes
running from these should also be check, with particular attention paid to
anywhere there is negative fall as water will sit here and have more chance to
work it’s way through any weak points.
The skin fittings on boats are another week point. Integral welded steel
outlets on older boats may have rusted through with time, this happened with
the shower on my boat, a late 90’s cruiser stern
If in doubt you can eliminate the plumbing completely by isolating it (or draining it) from the boat and seeing if the problem persists. If it does then this would suggest that the water is coming from outside the boat. Again, we are assuming that this is an above the waterline issue. Is the problem worse in wet weather? Then it’s probably coming in through a weakness somewhere in the shell. The ‘weak points’ are anywhere the shell has been cut through, in particular, windows, mushrooms, chimney collars and other vents and outlets. Doors and doorways could also be to blame. Rust, damp or mould down the wall beneath the cladding might lead you to the offending article. It is worth giving the exterior of the boat a thorough visual inspection. I have also known water to get in from wet bilges, such as an engine bilge, when bulkheads have rusted through to the cabin bilge. While I am not going in to detail on how to fix the multitude of issues you might discover, I will perhaps cover some in future blogs, I will give a shout out here to ‘Captain Tolley’s creeping crack cure’. This can be a handy fix for certain hairline gaps on boat exterior, at least for a temporary fix.
I should also mention condensation. This gets put forward as a source of water
in the bilge and can be a problem, though I have not seen many cases where
condensation is creating a significant build up of water. It shouldn’t be completely disregarded, but I
would look for other culprits first unless you have a lot of bare and
uninsulated shell beneath the cladding.
Preparing for the work
You’ve found and fixed you’re leak. Now you need to assess the damage and decide on a course of action. You should be able to dry the bilge, and have it stay dry. If not, then you may still have an issue. It could be that you have an area of flooring/woodwork that has been affected and a rusty bilge. How much should you do? It is tempting to want to pull everything up and start again, but this may not be practical. Factors such as, how accessible is the bilge, the age and value of the boat, the state of internal fitout, the severity of the damage/mould/rust will guide you as to how much is worth doing.
looks awful, 1mm of steel becomes 10mm of rust! When you first look at a bilge
that has gotten wet it can be quite frightening. If you are in doubt, then seek professional
advice. A surveyor will be able to help you gauge what is problematic and
what is just cosmetic. Mould should be
dealt with as this can be bad for the health and residual damp and mould can
affect surrounding woodwork.
there is relatively little in the way of fitout and bulkheads it may be simple
to lift everything for access. If the
opposite is true you might find it very difficult to lift boards which are
pinned down by walls, kitchen, bathroom, tiles and all sorts of fitted
furniture and the like. Perhaps you can
cut out the rotten area and replace, then deal with the rusty bilge locally and
at the stern. If the rust is not too
bad, you can possibly just dry out the bilge and trust that it will remain
relatively dry in the future so that the rust will not significantly
Ideally you want to remove all rotten wood and clean, treat and paint any rusty sections of bilge (and walls of the shell if effected). In extreme cases this can mean removing the boats fit-out completely. If this is required then a dock with covered storage is the best situation, but it might be possible to deal with half a boat at a time and do it this way while on the cut.
If there is extensive remedial work to do then it is often as quick, and probably more sound, to remove whole panels of wall and floor and replace them. Cutting bits out and bodging them back in will likely leave a creaky floor and messy looking boat. Not to say it can’t be done, but by the time you have done a proper job of cutting out a piece of flooring, patching it and making good you may have been able to just take out the bulkheads and lifted the whole lot. This also makes it easier to support the flooring properly. I will cover floors, sub floors etc in more detail in other blogs
We are mostly dealing with bilges here, though the same techniques can be applied to other metal elements of the shell, so I will leave the woodwork to one side. The flooring, and subfloor will want to come up and then any ballast will need lifting. It is difficult to really get a bilge bone dry until anything is removed and it is fully exposed. Even then, if there are thick layers of rust this can trap a lot of moisture. You will want to dry out ballast before putting it back in, unless it’s pea shingle in which case bin and replace with slabs! Care should be taken when removing a boats ballast. Narrowboats are inherently pretty stable (wobbly, but unlikely to capsize), but do be aware that moving/removing ballast may affect your boat and it’s position in the water
tip: If you are going to remove sections of the fit-out, take lots of photos
and notes while you do. It is easy to forget how everything went together when
you come to put it all back later on
Sorting the Bilges
this point you should have full access to all the areas you want to deal with.
Like I have said, we are discussing the metal work here. Some of the carpentry
elements you will find dealt with in my other blogs, but the spectrum of work
is too wide to cover here satisfactorily.
mention again, rust can look much worse than it is, but if you are unsure of
the integrity of the hull then seek professional advice. The next step is to physically remove as much
rust as possible. Rust is an oxide of steel
and is unusual in that it flakes away from the surface of the metal where many
other metals’ oxides adhere to the surface. Take for example aluminium, a
highly reactive metal that is protected by it’s oxide coating. Sadly, this is
not the case with steel and rust and you will want to remove as much off the
loose rust as possible
purposes I would suggest starting with giving the entirety a good going over
with a scraper and then sweeping up the loosened rust. Be aware that dealing with
the rust is probably the messiest bit of the whole job and you should take care
to wear appropriate PPE, including but not limited to goggles, mask, and probably
a boiler suit.
area effected is large and the resources are available, then it may be
practical to mechanically remove the rust with a needle gun or with blasting. It
is best to seek professional advice if you want to do this so that you can be
advised on the suitability of these techniques.
the area has been scraped over then it will need a thorough brushing with a stiff
wire brush. This can be a hand brush or a drill attachment, either way it’s
dusty, horrible work to do so masks on! Sweep away whatever comes off and
hopefully you will have a surface that is beginning to look a little less
You won’t be able to remove all the rust (unless blasting of course) so the next step is very important and should not be skipped. A rust converter should be used on the entire surface. There are a few different products and it is to be noted you will likely want to order these in advance from the internet as they are not readily available in shops in useful quantities (you might try Halfords and Toolstation, but better to go online). Fertan and Vactan are both popular, though check whether the product you are using needs washing off after application as this adds an annoying and, I feel, unnecessary step. My personal favourite is FLAG rust converter and primer as this can be painted on and left and leaves a primed surface ready for topcoat.
All of these converters work in the same way, they change the red oxide into a black oxide which is stable and will remain stuck to the steel. Don’t ask me the science of it, I am sure that is available elsewhere on the internet. The idea is that you want a stable surface to apply your new finish too, otherwise rust underneath your paint might damage the surface and lead to water being able to penetrate and further rust the metal
could stop at this point, but I feel if you have gone to all the trouble then why
not future proof it? You aren’t going to
want to get back in the bilge any time soon and if you put a decent topcoat on
then you will have a much better level of protection should you have any leaks
in the future. My personal choice is
Manor Coatings Zinfos 340 WS. You can get this online or from many auto-motive
paint suppliers. It is one-part primer topcoat with a anti-corrosive. I like to
think of it as Hammarite for grownups. It is cheaper and can be mixed to any colour,
so why not. I like a light cream or grey, so that you can easily see oil, rust or
any other issues in the future, but whatever floats your boat (if you’ll pardon
coats of Zinfos 340 and your metal work should be fairly bomb proof (not literally
mind). After this you are all set to
replace the ballast and begin rebuilding/re-fitting the innards of your
boat. Assuming you have taken things out
with care and have good records of how it went together then this should be a
relatively pain free exercise. You’ll likely be replacing your subfloor in part
if not in whole, exterior grade ply here is fine but some people like to be
belt and braces and stick in marine grade. This is fine, though it is pricey
and very heavy.
you’ve finished. You might not be able to see you’re handywork but now you can
sleep soundly knowing that you’ve done a proper job. Why not relax from your
hard days labour and check out some pictures on our Instagram feed or see some
of our projects on our website. Until the next time