Back again on shelves. I have covered this in part with other articles, but I wanted to do a whole piece highlighting some of the beautiful custom and made to order shelves we have made and could make for you. Below I describe some different styles and sample pieces, along with some photos of each to show you what can be done.

I’ve often said, making use of vertical space in a boat is key to making the best of the room in your boat. Shelves, cost-effective and attractive, are ideal to do this. Whether it’s angled walls, where our Ellie Shelf and Fixed Angle Shelf rule supreme, or bulkheads where the straight vertical space can be used for any type of shelving. Under gunwale too, shallow but handy, and can be easily fitted out with our Bespoke Under Gunwale Shelving
When I think shelves, I think books.

We have built libraries for houses and boats. With these Ash and Oak libraries, we had plenty of space to play with and a budget to use some high quality hardwoods which are both beautiful and durable. Adjustable shelving makes them versatile as well.

With this sapele library, we had the opportunity to a wealth of shelving in this boat library. There’s a combination of large and small shelving so that the client could house their extensive collection of books and graphic novels. We used space on bulkheads and under the gunwales to really pack in the storage. For something roomy but a little simpler, this ply shelving has a very modern feel to it and offer lots of room.

Shelves work well doubled up with other storage. Cupboards beneath are a classic alcove storage solution.

These were solid oak and then hand veneered (cold pressed) slab doors to make this beautiful cupboard shelf combo.

I really love this bulkhead shelving, where we combined adjustable shelving above with wicker storage baskets below. You can hide away lots of stuff in the baskets and display your treasured belongings above.

S is for Shelves

For something a little more unique, I am a huge fan of live edge timber. You can read a bit more about live edge timber and why it’s so special in my “What Wood – Live Edge” article, but the tiger oak shelves we made are a wonderful example. There is just so much character to them. It’s not just the undulations of the edge, but the rich colours and patterns of the grain.

Another favourite of mine is the London plane desk and shelf. This was a piece of timber I acquired speculatively at a timber yard while buying some other bits, and it sat for several years waiting to find a home.

I have also included another desk/shelf combo, but this one in solid oak. The scalloped edges are all hand carved and are inspired by work I did on a vardo, which had this style of decoration on a lot of the surfaces. The decoration adds a lightness, while the thickness of the oak gives it a robust and solid feel.

Whatever you need, we can make it. Get in touch, and we would love to design something with you.

S Is for Shelves is part of the A to Z of Narrowboats series.

A wheelhouse is one of my favourite jobs. There is lots of interesting designing to resolve, the job itself is complex joinery and the finished article is an impressive and beautiful piece that is going to be around for potentially longer than me.

It also means a good two months pottering in the workshop, which is my happy place. Machining great piles of timber (there is around 1-2 cubic metres of timber used in a large wheelhouse), cutting joints and more sanding than I really care to think about.

The general process, once overall outline and budget have been established, is to begin with measuring and templating the space. I make a 3D model of the relevant area on my laptop so I can build the wheelhouse in CAD later, and the finer details of the angles and undulations of the surface are captured in template. This is done by shaving, scribing and cutting lots of strips of scrap wood (ply, MDF, sterling board, whatever is to hand) and screwing them together.

Transporting the template to the workshop allows me to replicate the wheelhouse base as it will be and do as much work as possible offsite. Before this, I must design every element of the wheelhouse. As each one is unique, and made of many unique parts, this takes around a week.

By carefully creating everything virtually first I can resolve many potential issues before they happen. I can see how all the part will fit and make sure everything works as it should. Additionally, it allows me to make a comprehensive materials list and cutting list, even to size all the windows ready for production.

There are 200–300 hours of manufacturing in a wheelhouse, so it’s important to be as efficient as possible. Having my advance list means I can group jobs, getting them processed as quickly as possible. This might be 2 days simply machining parts, a couple more cutting all the elements of the windows. With an audiobook on in my Bluetooth ear defenders I am a cloud of dust for a couple of weeks.

Assembling all the parts often throws up unexpected problems to solve. Even a full 3D model never completely prepares you for all real life applications. But up it goes, and once the base, windows and wall plate are in place, the roof can begin.

Making the curved pieces of the roof is something of wonder in itself.  My technique, which I must admit was inspired by Gilberto Marqueti who I used to work with, involves a bandsaw to cut rough ribs and then (post planning) shaping on the spindle moulder with a guide wheel and template.

Using only the ringfence on the spindle moulder, with a 4″ block spinning at 3000rpm is a little intimidating at first. But set up correctly and with an auto feed to assist, it is safe and gives remarkable results.

One of the most time-consuming parts of the roof is cutting all the halving joints that hold the sections together. There can be 30-60 of these, each with (of course) two halves to cut. I use an internal guttering system to allow the roof sections to remain separate but watertight. The channels in between are a matching wood, with an aluminium gutter insert. This is carefully shaped (I put it on two supports and sit on it) into a perfectly matching curve.

Structure complete, trims are added, ironmongery fitted, and all the fine details are done.  The roof is clad and edged, I use Vekaplan S with aluminium trims on the side.  I can then test out every element of the structure in the real world. Finally, it is time for oil.

I sand everything as I go, this is the best way to get a good finish, so once I have dismantled it all and removed all the ironmongery etc, I give it a final wipe down and start applying oil. The exact process depends on the species of wood used and the desired finish, but I typically like to start with a penetrating oil.

There are multiple coats to apply, and this process will stretch over another week. In the meantime, the glass will arrive and once it’s all finished and dry, the glazing begins. All the units are placed in, and the glazing bars glued and nailed to keep it secure in perpetuity.

Glazed, oiled and as complete as can be, all the parts go to site. This can be anywhere in the network, but hopefully a spot with reasonable access and a good local café! The wheelhouse is then rebuilt onto the boat. With luck this required minimal fettling, but it can still take up to a week to complete.

And that’s it, that’s how I build a wheelhouse. Check out the “what wood” articles if you want to know a bit more about the materials used and do, of course, get in touch if I can help you build something like this for your boat. It would be my pleasure.

First off, while we do make fully custom kitchens, a lot of what we do is “off shelf”, with just a few tweaks. Standard carcasses fit well in boats. While a true bespoke kitchen is great, you can get a similar effect for a lot less.

Some interesting features to look out for in kitchens are various storage solutions like:

Kidney carousels and ¾ carousels for corner cupboards

Pull out worktops (great for boats!)

Plinth drawers, to really maximise space

“Wine Cellars” in the bilge, a bit of a Cluett Carpentry boat special

Wall cupboards and shelving normally need a bit more adaptation to fit the sloped walls of a narrowboat but can look very nice when done well. I like to utilise offcuts of the worktop to make shelving, tying it all together in a cohesive theme.

Speaking of worktops, have you considered stainless steel tops if you want a professional kitchen feel? Or how about elements of live edge timber or something more rural and warmer. Reclaimed wood is gorgeous for doors and panels if you want to go really rustic. 

I make all our carcasses with birch ply (incidentally, another interesting worktop option!) though rigid MFC carcasses from the big-name suppliers will probably last long enough, all things considered. 

Whatever your style and budget, there is so much you can do with your kitchen, and in a smaller space like a boat it really is key to make this heart of the home pull its weight. 

Under the bed, doors or drawers give access to the front, but what about the back. Here is where a gas strut ottoman style bed is great. Lifting for easy access, it makes it easy (easier) to get things in and out of the back space. This is perfect for camping gear in the winter and heavy gear and boots in the summer.

A built-in cupboard is great, particularly if you can get some hanging space in there. Hanging space is great, but make sure it is wide enough. A pet peeve of mine is rails where the clothes stop the doors closing. If you can’t get 55cm depth, then consider spinning the rail 90 degrees. It reduces access a little, but in a shallow space that’s fine, and you can now get full width hanging.

Do make sure that the cupboard isn’t encroaching on the bed too much. As a tall person, I feel like a battery in a remote when the walls are snug at my head and feet. You are taller lying down somehow, so a proper 1900mm is best, but still allow for overhang at the foot end if at all possible.

Another neat trick for beds is a lift up edge to make it a little wider where you need it. Experience has taught me that a “French Double” (a 120cm wide bed) is quite cosy for two adults.  Especially when you are losing 10cm under the gunwale.

Bedside tables are not practical, however this did lead to the creation of the first Ellie Shelf which makes for an easy bedside table for whoever has the wall, or just yourself when sat ready in bed. Likewise, it’s good to capitalize on the Under Gunwale Storage. It doesn’t cut significantly into the room, but it gives you so much extra space for books and knick-knacks.

We spend a lot of time in our beds, so it’s worth getting the space right. Careful planning and thoughtful cabinetry can turn a small, cramped space into a luxurious pad to relax in.

Disclaimer: The following is purely opinion and represents my personal experience with boats I’ve seen over my years working on the waterways. I am not a surveyor, and neither I nor Cluett Carpentry Ltd accept liability for any decisions made in purchasing a boat. Remember, buying a boat is Caveat Emptor, and it’s strongly recommended that you get a full survey before any purchase.

I’ve seen hundreds of boats in my working life. Here are my thoughts on what to look for to get the best start in a life afloat.

Finding a Boat

Get on Apollo Duck and the marina websites to compare what’s out there. You’ll get a good sense of the market and what your budget will get you before you even set foot on a boat.

Don’t be too firm on essentials until you’ve lived on a boat. Is that trad stern you’ve set your heart on really what you want? Personally, I find them awkward for practical usage—give me a good cruiser stern any day, but everybody is different.

Be wary of outliers. Project boats (especially with wood or GRP tops) and older hulls can seem like bargains, but there’s a reason they’re cheap. Often you’ll spend more than you save within a year and have a boat worth less than you’ve spent. A sound hull, decent engine, and metal cabin are the real non-negotiables for me.

Anything older than 30 years and you’re potentially into overplating territory. If it isn’t done well, then the hull may still be rotting away, with water trapped between two skins of steel. Even over plated, an older boat will have significantly less value than a newer hull, which is worth considering before putting a lot of resources into refitting.  

Hull age, length/beam, price, and engine should be the first things listed on any ad. A little “much beloved home, selling with a heavy heart” is fine, but it’s not really relevant. BSS is BS and, in my opinion, not worth the paper it’s written on for determining a boat’s viability. It’s not like an MOT for a car—it guarantees almost nothing for you. Many rotten boats still have a BSS, it is no kind of guarantee!

Finally, unless you’re prepared to spend twice as much and take three times as long as planned, be very careful when considering a project boat or sail away. If you can do the work yourself, great. If you’re paying someone, it’ll cost far more than buying a boat that’s ready to go and just needs minor alterations.

Viewing a Boat

First off, red flags:

• Damp smell
• Mould
• Wet/damp cabin bilge or very rusty bilge (i.e., was wet often/recently)
• Spongy/bouncy floor

Be very careful of a boat with any of these. If you’ve got a hull rusting from the inside and a rotten subfloor, or black mould on the back of wall linings, it’s potentially time for a full refit. Very expensive and a lot of work.

If you’re tall, check headroom before viewing. If you’re bending over to move about, question whether that’s sustainable.

Beware of “small jobs” left to do on cheaper boats. These ring alarm bells—small jobs often take much longer than expected and turn out expensive. If they’re that small and easy, why hasn’t the seller done them?

Buying a Boat

You’re ready to make an offer. I feel people rarely pay the asking price on a boat. Don’t go crazy, but it’s worth trying for a bit off.

Expect the seller to take you out on their boat either before or after a deposit is paid, but before the out-of-water survey. You’ll see the engine running and get a sense of the boat in action, plus it’s crucial for the seller to show you how everything works—electrics, heating/hot water, isolators, and more. Boats aren’t uniform, and if you don’t find out now, you may spend ages wondering how things work.

Finally, and most importantly: you absolutely must get an independent surveyor of your choice to do an out-of-water hull survey. A full survey (rather than just hull) is great but check what it covers. No fault of the surveyors, but some people think a full survey covers more than it does. If you aren’t paying specifically for detailed electrical inspection, you’re probably not getting it.

Final Thoughts

Don’t be afraid to ask questions. Lead with your head, not your heart. Boats are an emotional purchase—much more so than houses—but a cute interior may be hiding trouble for later.

There are lots of great folk on the water, but also some rogues, so speak to a range of people and get all the advice you can. The boating community is welcoming and friendly, and lots of people will help you out just to be kind.

Good luck finding the perfect boat. May you have many years of happy cruising ahead of you.